Learn : Repainting wood work,Repainting Wood Furniture,Repainting Doors,Repainting Cabinetry,wood floors

Repainting wood work

Repainting wood work
Repainting wood work

(i)        If the old paint be unsightly, unsound, blistering or flaking off then it should be removed by the application of some paint remover, by scrapping or by burning the paint with a blow lamp.

(ii)       On surface disfigured by smoke a coat of one kilogram glue and 60 gms of unslaked lime in four kilograms of water should first be given.

(iii)     The surface should be thoroughly cleaned by washing it with soap and water.

All greasy spots should be painted with turpentine oil and washed with soap and water. A solution of washing soda in water is used for cleaning the surface of all greasy spots.

(iv)      All holes and cracks etc. should be filled up with putty i.e. stopping should be done.

(v)       Before the application of each coat the surface should be rubbed smooth with sand paper or with pumice stone.

(vi)      Two or three coats of paint having the desired shade are then applied as on new surface (Printing coat may not be applied).

Repainting Wood Furniture

Repainting Wood Furniture
Repainting Wood Furniture

If the surface is already painted or varnished, remove dirt or wax buildup with a household cleaner and rinse. Sand rough areas and wipe away dust with a tack cloth. Apply two coats of stain-blocking primer and allow it to dry between coats. Roll or brush on two coats of latex paint in the direction of the wood grain. Use a brush to finish the surface with smooth strokes. For furniture or cabinetry that will receive heavy use (like kitchen cabinets that are opened on a daily basis), it’s a good idea to seal the finish with two coats of polyurethane.

Repainting Doors

Repainting Doors
Repainting Doors

Although common practice is to remove a door before painting, you might as well paint it in place — that way, you can paint all sides at once and won’t have to rehang it. First, remove the knobs and hardware, and mask hinges. Use an oil-base sealer and primer to lock in the original finish, then use at least two coats of semigloss or gloss paint.

Repainting Cabinetry

Repainting Cabinetry
Repainting Cabinetry

When painting cabinetry, prep work is everything. First, remove the doors and drawers (as well as any hardware) and clean the surfaces. The type of primer you should use depends on whether the cabinets are wood or laminate.

If your cabinets have been painted before, you’ll want to determine what type of paint was used. This is important because an oil-base finish requires an oil-base sealer and primer. To test a painted surface, Brian Santos, a pro painter, says to soak a cotton ball in ammonia and stick it to the surface with an adhesive bandage or tape. Take it off after about an hour; if the paint has wrinkles, it’s water-base. If it doesn’t, it’s oil-base.

After you apply the correct primer, apply two or three coats of paint to ensure the cabinets will stand up to daily use. For best results, apply the paint with a foam roller, then use a brush to spread the paint and create an even finish.

Repainting wood floors

Repainting Wood Floors
Repainting Wood Floors

To paint a wood floors, clean and sand the surface (filling any cracks with wood filler), then apply an oil-base sealer. You can use either oil-base or latex paint. Alkyd or modified epoxy latex porch and floor paint is a good choice for high-traffic areas. A polyurethane coating (a type of varnish) will help protect painted floors. You might want to use a water-base varnish because oil-base varnishes yellow over time.

Use a roller with a long handle to cover large floor areas, although a brush is fine for small areas. Remember to plan your escape route: Start in a corner and work toward your exit to avoid stepping on wet paint.